I just got back from conducting Bach's Christmas Oratorio in Osaka and Handel's Messiah in Tokyo. These were benefit performances for the Japan International Volunteer Center, a wonderful organization based in Tokyo that provides relief, medical and agricultural assistance to countries in Asia, Africa and the Middle East. JVC has been putting on these Tokyo and Osaka concerts for many years under a host of conductors and this was my turn at it. The dedicated In-Charge is Inez Baskerville whose home is in Madison, Wisconsin. Inez lived part-time in Japan for roughly 40 years. She is, as you can imagine, fluent in the language and made sure that our stay was an enjoyable one. The orchestra was the Telemann Chamber Orchestra, a full-time ensemble based in Osaka that is equally adept at playing on Baroque or or modern instruments. Besides being extremely competent, musical and a joy to work with, they had been doing these two works for years and knew them inside and out. It was such a pleasure to conduct musicians who could duplicate my intentions instantly. Every tempo I indicated was picked up immediately and precisely. Everything I asked for was understood and executed perfectly on the first try. So my hat is off to them and their leader, Takeharu Nobuhara, a maestro and Baroque specialist considered the "Harnoncourt" of Japan! The four vocal soloists, Elissa Johnston, Adriana Manfredi, Pablo Cora and Kenneth Kellog all did a great job handling such a volume of arias and recitatives. In addition to the two big oratorios they also had several song recitals to give at our hotels–the Swiss-otel Nankai Osaka and the Hyatt Regency Tokyo. The Quodlibet Choir, a refined ensemble with a long tradition sang the Bach beautifully. That work profited by its performance space, the Izumi Hall which is an intimate, 900-seat room made primarily of warm-toned wood and with a full, resonant yet clear acoustic that was perfectly suited for the oratorio. The larger JVC choir of 180 voices for the Messiah did splendidly and the enthusiasm of this volunteer chorus matched the high spirits of this great work to a tee. The Bach choir has a tradition of always finishing every rehearsal with singing a lovely arrangement of "May the Lord bless you and keep you." I was asked to lead them through it after each of my Bach sessions too and I found that to be extremely touching. They even asked me to conduct it at the conclusion of the post concert party after having sung all day! The Handel choir did a similar thing by grabbing my arm and having me conduct them through the Hallelujah Chorus at the end of their post-concert party! I found Japan to be an impressive country. Although I have conducted in Korea many times virtually all of its professional orchestras, this was my first trip to Japan. The Japanese are trained to be good team players from an early age. This was abundantly clear from the discipline and positive attitude I encountered working with several of its ensembles. Tokyo is an enormous metropolis with beautifully designed skyscrapers everywhere. And they are so CLEAN! It's like the buildings are washed on the outside! The cleanliness of the overall environment is superior to any place I have ever visited. It certainly puts our American streets to shame. I felt completely safe there and never received a hostile look from passersby. The food is terrific and I love the system of restaurants putting plastic renderings of their dishes with the prices listed outside for all to see. You can easily determine if a restaurant has something that looks appealing and at a price that meets your budget. There were so many endearing things that occurred. Here's one: You are taking a hotel bus to the airport. You give your bags to a porter who places them in the bus's luggage compartment. Meanwhile you are waiting in your seat to depart. When the porter is finished his work, he looks up at the guests in the bus and gives a deep bow! Such formality! It makes his small job seem very important and deserving of respect. Indeed, that is a characteristic I observed in equal measure in Korea–the respect given to WORK of any kind. Everyone does something, produces something, no matter how small and each has his place in society and gets his measure of respect. You can walk for miles in the busy streets of Tokyo and Seoul and not see anyone begging. They are all working!!! The man who sells fruit from his corner cart has his portion of dignity. Hey, the taxi drivers wear suits and white gloves in Tokyo. Pretty cool. I recently heard that the NY government is trying to legislate a dress code for cabbies in the big apple! Well, I could go on and on–seeing the majestic, snow capped Mt. Fuji from the bullet train en route from Osaka to Tokyo was a nice bonus. But I'll wrap this entry up with a big BRAVO to the Japanese people for your industry, sweetness and aesthetic sensibility. Arigato gozaimas (thank you very much!) Sayonara, Paul